What are melee diamonds?

Melee diamonds, often overshadowed by their larger counterparts, play a crucial role in the jewelry industry. These tiny diamonds, typically less than 0.2 carats in size, are used to enhance the brilliance and overall aesthetic of various jewelry pieces. Despite their small size, melee diamonds are pivotal in adding sparkle and value to intricate designs. This comprehensive guide delves into the details of melee stones, exploring their history, types, shapes, cuts, and much more. If you are a jewelry enthusiast or someone interested in the finer details of diamond craftsmanship, this in-depth exploration is for you.

The history of melee diamonds

The use of melee diamonds dates back several centuries. Historically, small diamonds were often discarded or undervalued because the focus was primarily on larger stones. However, with advancements in cutting techniques and a growing appreciation for intricate designs, melee diamonds began to gain prominence.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the rise of Art Deco and Edwardian jewelry styles brought melee diamonds to the forefront. These styles emphasized intricate, detailed designs that required smaller stones to complement the larger central diamonds. The diamond melee became essential in creating the elaborate, symmetrical patterns characteristic of these periods.

As cutting technologies improved, the ability to produce melee diamonds with greater precision and brilliance also advanced. This development allowed for the mass production of melee stones, making them more accessible and widely used in various jewelry designs.

Types of melee diamonds

Melee diamonds can be broadly categorized into two types based on their cut: single cut and full cut. Understanding these distinctions is crucial when selecting melee stones for jewelry.

• Single Cut Melee Diamonds: These diamonds typically have 17 or 18 facets. They are often used in antique or vintage jewelry pieces, where the aim is to recreate a specific historical aesthetic. The fewer facets result in a subtler sparkle compared to modern cuts, making them ideal for designs that require a more understated look.
• Full Cut Melee Diamonds: In contrast, full cut melee diamonds have 57 or 58 facets, similar to a standard brilliant-cut diamond. This cut maximizes the diamond’s brilliance and is the most common type of melee diamond used in contemporary jewelry. The full cut enhances the stone’s ability to reflect light, creating a dazzling effect even in small sizes.

The different shapes of melee diamonds

While melee diamonds are often thought of as round, they come in various shapes, each serving a different purpose in jewelry design. Some of the most popular shapes include:

• Round Melee Diamonds: The most common shape, round melee stones, are prized for their versatility and ability to maximize brilliance. They are used in everything from engagement rings to intricate bracelets.
• Princess Cut Melee Diamonds: These square-shaped diamonds are perfect for creating geometric patterns or adding a modern twist to traditional designs.
• Marquise, Oval, and Pear Shaped Melee Diamonds: These elongated shapes are often used to create a sense of movement in a piece of jewelry. They are less common than round or princess cuts but offer a unique aesthetic.
• Baguette and Tapered Baguette Melee Diamonds: Characterized by their rectangular shape, baguette melee stones are often used as accents in rings, particularly in Art Deco designs. The tapered baguette, narrower at one end, is frequently used to flank a central stone, guiding the eye towards the centerpiece.

Melee diamond cuts

The cut of a diamond is one of the most critical factors in determining its brilliance and value. Melee diamonds are no exception. The precision of the cut is even more crucial in melee stones because their small size means that even minor imperfections can significantly affect their appearance.

• Brilliant Cut: As mentioned earlier, the full cut melee diamonds are cut in a brilliant style with 57 or 58 facets. This cut is designed to maximize light reflection and create the most sparkle.
• Step Cut: Less common in melee diamonds, the step cut involves parallel facets arranged like steps. While it doesn’t offer as much sparkle as the brilliant cut, it is prized for its clarity and ability to showcase the diamond’s color and purity.
• Rose Cut: This antique style cut has a flat bottom and a domed top with triangular facets, resembling the petals of a rose. Rose cut melee diamonds are typically used in vintage or bespoke jewelry to achieve a specific historical aesthetic.

Single cut vs. full cut

The debate between single cut and full cut melee diamonds is ongoing, with each having its unique advantages.

Single cut melee diamonds are typically used in vintage-inspired jewelry where a softer sparkle is desired. The 17 or 18 facets create a more subdued glimmer, making them ideal for understated elegance. These are also easier to produce, making them a more cost-effective option for those on a budget.

Full cut melee diamonds, with their 57 or 58 facets, offer maximum brilliance. This makes them the preferred choice for modern, high-sparkle designs. However, the additional facets require more precise cutting, often resulting in a higher price point.

Common uses of melee diamonds in jewelry

Melee diamonds are incredibly versatile and are used in various types of jewelry. Their small size makes them ideal for adding detail and enhancing the overall design. Some of the most common uses include:

• Halo Settings: In engagement rings, melee diamonds are often used to create a halo around a larger central stone. This not only adds brilliance but also makes the central diamond appear larger.
• Pavé and Micro-Pavé Settings: Melee diamonds are extensively used in pavé and micro-pavé settings. In these settings, the diamonds are set closely together, creating a continuous sparkle across the jewelry’s surface. This technique is especially popular in wedding bands, earrings, and bracelets.
• Accent Stones: Melee diamonds are frequently used as accent stones alongside larger diamonds or colored gemstones. They add brilliance and draw attention to the centerpiece without overpowering it.

Melee diamonds prices

The price of melee diamonds can vary significantly based on several factors, including size, cut, color, and clarity. Generally, because of their small size, melee diamonds are much more affordable than larger diamonds. However, the cumulative cost can add up, especially when used in large quantities, such as in pavé settings.

Key factors influencing the price include:

• Size: The smaller the diamond, the less expensive it tends to be. However, cutting and setting smaller melee stones requires greater precision, which can sometimes increase the cost.
• Cut: The complexity of the cut, particularly in full cut melee diamonds, can impact the price. More facets generally mean more work and, therefore, a higher price.
• Color and Clarity: Like all diamonds, melee diamonds are graded on color and clarity. Higher grades in these categories will command higher prices, though slight imperfections are less noticeable in smaller stones.
• Quantity: Since melee diamonds are often sold in parcels, the price can vary depending on the number of stones in a parcel and their overall quality.

Melee diamonds in pavé and micro-pavé settings

Pavé and micro-pavé settings are among the most popular uses for melee diamonds. In a pavé setting, small diamonds are set closely together, with minimal metal visible between them. This creates a surface that appears to be entirely covered in diamonds. Micro-pavé takes this concept further by using even smaller diamonds and setting them with extreme precision.

These settings are commonly used in:

• Engagement Rings: A pavé or micro-pavé band adds extra sparkle to an engagement ring without distracting from the central stone. It’s a popular choice for those looking to enhance their ring’s overall brilliance.
• Earrings: Pavé settings are often used in hoop or stud earrings, creating a continuous sparkle that can elevate a simple design.
• Bracelets and Necklaces: Pavé and micro-pavé settings are also popular in bracelets and necklaces, where they add a luxurious touch without overwhelming the overall design.

Buying a ring with melee diamonds

When purchasing jewelry with melee diamonds, it’s essential to consider several factors to ensure you are getting a high-quality piece.

• Quality of the Melee Diamonds: Even though melee diamonds are small, their quality matters. Look for stones that are well-cut, with good color and clarity. In pavé settings, ensure the diamonds are set securely and evenly.
• Craftsmanship: The setting of melee stones requires precision. Examine the jewelry closely to ensure the diamonds are evenly spaced and securely set. Poor craftsmanship can lead to stones falling out over time.
• Design Compatibility: Consider how the melee diamonds complement the central stone or overall design. They should enhance, not overshadow, the main elements of the piece.
• Price Transparency: Ensure that the price reflects the quality of the melee diamonds used. Some jewelers might use lower quality stones to reduce costs, so it’s essential to understand what you are paying for.

How to care for and maintain melee diamond jewelry

Melee diamond jewelry requires careful maintenance to preserve its brilliance and longevity. Here are some tips to keep your jewelry looking its best:

• Regular Cleaning: Over time, dirt and oils can accumulate on the diamonds, dulling their sparkle. Regular cleaning with a soft brush and mild detergent can help maintain their brilliance. For pavé settings, special care should be taken to ensure no stones are dislodged during cleaning.
• Professional Inspection: Given their small size, melee diamonds can be more prone to becoming loose or falling out. Regular inspections by a professional jeweler can help catch any potential issues early and prevent loss.
• Proper Storage: Store your melee diamond jewelry separately from other pieces to prevent scratches. Soft pouches or dedicated jewelry boxes are ideal for this purpose.
• Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Chemicals found in household cleaners, perfumes, and hair products can damage the setting and stones. Always remove your melee diamond jewelry before using these products.