Diamonds are a blend of art, science, and luxury. The Asscher cut diamond stands out as a masterpiece among them, celebrated for its architectural precision and the striking clarity it offers. This guide provides an in-depth exploration of the Asscher cut, delving into its unique attributes, historical significance, and why it remains a favorite among diamond enthusiasts.
What is an asscher cut diamond?
The Asscher cut diamond is a square-shaped gemstone with deeply cut corners, creating an octagonal appearance. What sets this cut apart is its step-cut facet structure, where the facets are arranged in parallel lines, creating a hall-of-mirrors effect. This optical illusion draws the eye into the diamond, emphasizing depth over brilliance. Unlike the more common brilliant cuts, which focus on maximizing sparkle, the Asscher cut prioritizes clarity and symmetry, offering a unique visual experience that appeals to those who appreciate understated elegance.
The Asscher cut is particularly suited to diamonds with high clarity grades because its large, open facets tend to expose inclusions and imperfections more readily than other cuts. When selecting an Asscher cut diamond, it’s crucial to opt for a stone with a clarity grade of VS1 or better, ensuring that the diamond’s interior remains as flawless as its external beauty.
Unique features of asscher diamonds
Asscher diamonds are renowned for their ability to showcase the inner clarity and geometric precision of a diamond. The step-cut facets, unlike the brilliant facets of round or princess cuts, produce a subdued sparkle, emphasizing luster over flash. This unique feature makes the Asscher cut particularly popular in vintage and antique jewelry designs, where the emphasis is on the diamond’s craftsmanship and material purity.
The cut’s deep pavilion and high crown are other distinctive characteristics, contributing to its depth and the way light interacts within the diamond. This structure allows the Asscher cut to create broad flashes of light rather than a continuous sparkle, lending it an air of sophistication and timelessness.
History of the asscher cut diamond
The Asscher cut was invented in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam, a family of master diamond cutters. This cut became particularly popular during the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s, an era known for its love of geometric shapes and symmetry, both of which are key elements of the Asscher cut’s design. The original Asscher cut featured 58 facets, but in 2001, the Royal Asscher Company introduced a refined version with 74 facets, increasing the diamond’s brilliance and enhancing its characteristic optical effects.
The Royal Asscher cut diamond is an evolution of the original, designed to meet modern standards of brilliance while maintaining the cut’s historical integrity. Today, both the original and Royal Asscher cuts are revered for their unique combination of vintage charm and contemporary precision.
Reasons to choose an asscher cut diamond
Selecting an Asscher cut diamond is more than a choice of shape; it’s a statement of style and taste. This cut is ideal for those who appreciate the interplay of light and shadow within a diamond, rather than the overt sparkle of more common cuts. It’s a choice that reflects an affinity for architectural beauty and a preference for diamonds that offer a clear view into their depths.
Moreover, the Asscher cut is versatile in terms of setting styles. Whether set in a solitaire, halo, or vintage-inspired setting, the Asscher cut diamond remains the focal point, drawing attention to its precision and clarity. This cut is also favored by those who appreciate history and tradition, as it is often associated with the Art Deco era and its influence on modern jewelry design.
Different faceting styles and their impact on appearance
The Asscher cut may vary slightly depending on the specific faceting style used. The original Asscher cut, with its 58 facets, offers a more subdued brilliance, while the Royal Asscher cut with 74 facets, enhances the stone’s overall brilliance. These additional facets allow for greater light dispersion, creating a diamond that balances the hall-of-mirrors effect with a subtle yet noticeable sparkle.
The choice between these two styles depends on personal preference. If you seek a diamond that exudes quiet elegance with a focus on clarity and depth, the original Asscher cut is ideal. For those who desire a bit more sparkle without compromising the geometric precision, the Royal Asscher cut offers the best of both worlds.
Best proportions for asscher cut diamonds
The proportions of an Asscher cut diamond are critical to its overall appearance and performance. A well-proportioned Asscher cut should have a length-to-width ratio close to 1.00, ensuring that the diamond appears square when viewed from above. Deviations from this ratio can result in an elongated Asscher cut, which offers a different aesthetic but may not exhibit the same optical effects as the traditional square cut.
The depth percentage of an Asscher cut should ideally fall between 60% and 68%, with a table percentage between 60% and 65%. These proportions ensure that the diamond retains its characteristic depth while allowing sufficient light to enter and reflect within the stone, maximizing its visual appeal.
Length to width ratios for asscher cut diamonds
The length to width ratio is a critical factor in the appearance of an Asscher cut diamond. A ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 ensures that the diamond retains its square shape, which is essential for achieving the iconic hall-of-mirrors effect. Ratios beyond 1.05 create an elongated Asscher cut diamond, which offers a unique look but may not display the same level of symmetry and depth.
When choosing an Asscher cut diamond, it’s important to consider how the length-to-width ratio will affect the overall look of the diamond in its setting. For those who prefer a classic square shape, a ratio closer to 1.00 is ideal, while those looking for something a bit different may opt for a slightly elongated version.
Recommended clarity and color ratings for asscher diamonds
Because of the step-cut facets and large open table, the clarity of an Asscher cut diamond is of utmost importance. Inclusions and blemishes are more visible in this cut than in others, making a high clarity grade essential. A clarity grade of VS1 or better is recommended, as it ensures that the diamond appears flawless to the naked eye.
In terms of color, the Asscher cut can also reveal more color than brilliant cuts. Therefore, a color grade of G or higher is generally recommended to maintain a near-colorless appearance. This ensures that the diamond’s natural beauty is not compromised by any unwanted color tones.
Asscher cut diamond – color
The color of an Asscher cut diamond is more noticeable than in other cuts due to its large, open facets. Diamonds with color grades of G or better are ideal, as they offer a near-colorless appearance that enhances the diamond’s brilliance and complements the precision of the cut. Lower color grades can result in a diamond that appears slightly tinted, which may detract from its overall visual appeal.
When selecting an Asscher cut diamond, it’s important to consider how the color will interact with the setting. For example, a white gold or platinum setting can enhance the diamond’s colorlessness, while a yellow gold setting may highlight any color present in the stone.
Asscher cut diamond – clarity
Clarity is paramount in an Asscher cut diamond due to the cut’s large, open facets and broad, unobstructed table. Inclusions that might be less noticeable in a brilliant cut can become quite prominent in an Asscher cut, making a high clarity grade essential. For those seeking perfection, clarity grades of VS1 or higher are recommended, as they ensure that the diamond remains visually flawless.
When evaluating clarity, it’s also important to consider the location of inclusions. Inclusions near the center of the diamond or directly under the table are more visible and can affect the diamond’s appearance. Diamonds with inclusions near the edges or in less visible areas may still appear clean, even at lower clarity grades.
Asscher cut diamond – cut quality
The cut quality of an Asscher diamond is crucial, though it’s not graded in the same way as brilliant cuts. Instead, cut quality is assessed based on the symmetry, polish, and proportions of the diamond. An Asscher cut with excellent symmetry and polish will display the hall-of-mirrors effect more effectively, enhancing the diamond’s depth and clarity.
Symmetry refers to the alignment of the facets, while polish indicates the smoothness of the diamond’s surface. Both factors are critical in achieving the desired optical effects and ensuring that the diamond reflects light in a way that maximizes its inherent beauty.
Best setting for asscher cut diamond
Choosing the right setting for an Asscher cut diamond is essential to highlight its unique features. Prong settings are often preferred as they allow more light to enter the diamond, enhancing its brilliance. Bezel settings, while more protective, can sometimes obscure the diamond’s edges, so they are best suited for those who prioritize security over maximum light exposure.
Another popular option is the halo setting, where smaller diamonds surround the Asscher cut, adding extra sparkle and creating a striking contrast with the clean lines of the center stone. This setting is particularly effective for those looking to maximize the visual impact of a smaller Asscher cut diamond.
Asscher cut vs. princess cut
The Asscher cut vs. Princess cut comparison highlights two distinctly different approaches to diamond cutting. The Princess cut is designed for maximum brilliance, with its sharp, pointed corners and brilliant facet pattern. In contrast, the Asscher cut is all about clarity and symmetry, with step-cut facets that create a more subdued, sophisticated sparkle.
Asscher vs. princess: shape
The shape is one of the most obvious differences between the two cuts. While both are technically square, the Princess cut has pointed corners and a more modern appearance, whereas the Asscher cut has clipped corners, giving it an octagonal shape that exudes a vintage charm.
Asscher vs. princess: cut
The cut of the Princess diamond focuses on maximizing brilliance, with a facet arrangement that ensures the stone sparkles from every angle. The Asscher cut, on the other hand, uses step cuts that emphasize clarity and create a dramatic hall-of-mirrors effect, making it ideal for those who prefer a more refined look.
Asscher vs. princess: price
Price differences between the Asscher and Princess cuts can vary significantly. Typically, Princess cut diamonds are more affordable due to their popularity and the higher yield they provide during the cutting process. However, the Asscher cut is often priced higher, especially when sourced from the Royal Asscher Company, due to its more intricate cutting process and the demand for higher clarity grades.
Asscher cut vs. cushion cut
Comparing the Asscher cut vs. Cushion cut reveals two cuts with different aesthetic appeals. The Cushion cut, with its rounded corners and brilliant facets, offers a softer, more romantic appearance, making it a popular choice for those who prefer a vintage look with a bit more sparkle. The Asscher cut, with its geometric precision and step-cut facets, is ideal for those who appreciate clean lines and a focus on clarity.
Asscher vs. cushion: shape
The shape of the Cushion cut is characterized by its rounded edges, giving it a pillow-like appearance. The Asscher cut, in contrast, is square with clipped corners, offering a more angular and structured look.
Asscher vs. cushion: cut
The cut styles differ significantly between the two. The Cushion cut is designed to maximize sparkle, with a brilliant facet pattern that creates a lively play of light. The Asscher cut, with its step-cut facets, produces broad flashes of light, emphasizing the diamond’s clarity over brilliance.
Asscher vs. cushion: price
Price comparisons between these cuts depend largely on the quality and carat weight of the diamonds. While Cushion cut diamonds are generally more affordable due to their popularity and the ease of cutting, Asscher cut diamonds can command higher prices, especially when they come from reputable sources like the Royal Asscher Company.
Asscher cut vs. emerald cut
The Asscher cut vs. Emerald cut comparison is particularly interesting because these two cuts share many similarities. Both feature step-cut facets and are known for their clarity, but they differ in shape and proportion.
Asscher vs. emerald: shape
The shape is the most notable difference between these cuts. The Emerald cut is rectangular, with elongated facets that create a sleek, elongated appearance. The Asscher cut, however, is square, with clipped corners that give it an octagonal shape, making it appear more compact and symmetrical.
Asscher vs. emerald: cut
In terms of cut, both the Asscher and Emerald cuts use step facets, but the Asscher cut typically has a higher crown and smaller table, resulting in a more pronounced depth. This gives the Asscher cut its distinctive hall-of-mirrors effect, while the Emerald cut offers a more linear, understated brilliance.
Asscher vs emerald: price
Price differences between these cuts can vary depending on the diamond’s size, clarity, and source. Generally, Emerald cuts are more readily available, which can make them slightly less expensive than Asscher cuts. However, Asscher cuts, especially those from the Royal Asscher Company, can command premium prices due to their craftsmanship and historical significance.
Is asscher cut more expensive?
Asscher cut diamonds can be more expensive than other diamond cuts, especially when they are sourced from the Royal Asscher Company or feature high clarity and color grades. The demand for this cut among collectors and those with an appreciation for vintage jewelry styles often drives up the price, making it a premium choice for those looking to invest in a piece of history.
How do you pick an asscher cut diamond?
Selecting an Asscher cut diamond requires careful consideration of the four Cs: clarity, color, cut, and carat weight. For clarity, a grade of VS1 or better is recommended, as the large, open facets can reveal even the smallest inclusions. In terms of color, a G grade or better ensures that the diamond appears near-colorless, complementing the precision of the cut.
When evaluating cut quality, look for excellent symmetry and polish, as these factors are crucial in achieving the Asscher cut’s characteristic depth and clarity. Finally, consider the carat weight and how it will affect the diamond’s appearance in your chosen setting. Whether you opt for a 2ct Asscher cut diamond or a 10 carat Asscher cut diamond ring, ensuring that the proportions are balanced and the length-to-width ratio suits your aesthetic preferences will result in a diamond that is both beautiful and timeless.